A Delightful Weekend in Burgundy: Exploring Beaune and Dijon

Burgundy, a place of great food, delightful landscapes, and famous wines, holds a special place in my heart. I recall my last visit, a wine-tasting trip around the area of Chassagne-Montrachet during the autumn. The leaves on the trees started turning yellow and tan, creating a picturesque scene. The early morning walks, with the fallen leaves moving with my steps and the fog lifting over the vineyards, were truly magical. Burgundy, to me, is the epitome of French Gastronomy and Wine.

So, when the opportunity to explore Beaune and Dijon for a weekend presented itself, I seized it without a second thought. In this post, I’m embarking you on a virtual tour of Beaune and Dijon, sharing some of the unique places I’ve enjoyed visiting, including a remarkable restaurant in Beaune. Join me as I unfold these extraordinary experiences.

Day 1: Beaune

When I think of Beaune, I’m reminded of the iconic French movie, La Grande Vadrouille, a true classic of French cinema. A significant part of this masterpiece was filmed at The Hospices de Beaune, also known as Hôtel-Dieu, a place steeped in history and culture.

The story of the Hotel-Dieu dates back to the 15th century. In 1443, the Chancellor of Burgundy and his wife founded the Hôtel–Dieu on the model of a Flemish hospital. At this time, Burgundy was ruled by Philip the Good (1419-1467), who was one of the most powerful Dukes. Under his rule, most Low Countries, including Flanders, came under Burgundian control.

This 15th-century architectural marvel, a testament to the grandeur of Burgundian design, is instantly recognisable by its vibrant, geometric-patterned roof tiles. It’s a sight that never fails to inspire awe.

Stepping inside will take you back in time. You will pass through the ancient pharmacy, kitchen, and hospital wards. Finish your visit with the beautiful altarpiece of the Last Judgment by Rogier van der Weyden.

Beaune is a city full of charm that will steal your heart. Walking through the paved streets, notice the large doors hiding beautiful mansions in the backyards. Beaune is also the perfect place to indulge in French gastronomy. I had the most incredible dining experience in Beaune in a restaurant called. La Petite Taverne, Stepping into the restaurant, I was instantly transported to my grandmother’s kitchen. The red Formica table and the chair I sat on were reminiscent of hers, and the 20th-century kitchen utensils and home decor added to the nostalgic ambience. I ordered a fondue vigneronne, a dish where you cook pieces of steak in a red wine broth. It was served with home-cooked chips; I can tell you that I haven’t tasted chips like this for a long time. The experience in this restaurant was delightful. The restaurant has only got five tables. Book ahead, as they are often full.

To extend your visit beyond Beaune and explore the vineyards, why not hire a bicycle or book a guided tour? Burgundy wines are la Creme de la Creme. From Beaune, you can explore evocative places like:

• Nuits St George
• Chassagne Montrachet
• Meursault
• Chagny

You can also easily travel by train from Beaune to Dijon, which takes about 20-30 minutes. The station is within walking distance of the centre.

Day 2 – Dijon

As a child, I have heard the name Dijon repeatedly, and every kitchen table in France had a mustard pot from Dijon. You must have heard the name of Dijon Mustard before, which is related to the capital of Burgundy. We used to drive by on the road to the South of France on holidays but never stopped and visited the town.

When I stayed in Dijon, I was in double luck because the weather held on, and it was the “Fête de la Musique,” a yearly celebration all over France marking the summer solstice with music on the streets.

Dijon, like Beaune, is a city that will wow you. The centre of town is paved and only for pedestrians. The buildings mix medieval timber-framed houses with French and Italian architecture.

During the Renaissance, François I invited numerous Italian artists and architects to France, combining Italian and French architectural styles. This unique blend is evident in Burgundy, where Italian-inspired decorative features such as pilasters, cornices, and medallions are integrated into existing French Gothic and early Renaissance styles, creating a distinct French interpretation of Renaissance architecture.

While Leonardo da Vinci did not work directly in Burgundy, his presence in France and his close relationship with François I contributed to the overall cultural climate that facilitated the spread of Italian Renaissance ideas throughout France, including Burgundy.

Walking through the streets of Dijon was a delight. With elegant light stone buildings and a wonderful atmosphere, the air was filled with music from the improvised stages, a mix of rhythms celebrating French Culture. It was a truly enchanting experience.

Here are a few recommendations for a walking tour around Dijon

• Explore the historic centre, following the Owl’s Trail.
• Stop at Notre Dame de Dijon to see the famous “chouette” (owl) and touch it to make a wish.
• Make sure you visit the Les Halles Market. If you’re staying on an Airbnb, this is the best place to buy fresh vegetables, local meat, and scrumptious cheese for lunch or dinner. You can’t go more local. It’s only open in the morning from Tuesday to Saturday.
• Visit the Ducal Palace and climb Philippe le Bon Tower for city views.
• Tour the Musée des Beaux-Arts
• Taste Dijon mustard at La Moutarderie Edmond Fallot

I felt truly at home in Dijon. It feels very French, a little Parisian, and very elegant. It hardly surprises me that the Burgundian court at the time of the Valois during the 14th and 15th centuries was one of the wealthiest and most sophisticated in Europe, mainly due to the prosperous cloth trade in Flanders. You can still see the past splendour in town.

I loved that the town is mostly pedestrian. There are an array of restaurants and wine bars around the Market and many places to dine, including Al Fresco, which I typically miss in London. People seem happy, and there’s a joyful atmosphere everywhere you go.

Burgundy is a delightful place to visit. It’s a haven for food and wine lovers. If you feel bold enough, try the local speciality, snails.

Places to stay and eat:

Hotels

• Luxury Grand Hôtel La Cloche Dijon
• Mid-range: Mama Shelter
• Budget: Hôtel des Ducs

Restaurants

Luxury

• Loiseau des Ducs
• Restaurant William Frachot

Mid-range

• Le Petit Roi de la Lune
• La Maison des Cariatides
• Bouillon Notre-Dame

Budget

• Le Bistrot des Halles
• Les Fils à Maman when feeling nostalgic about your mum’s home-cooked food

Beaune:

Hotels: Luxury

• Hôtel Le Cep
• L’Hôtel de Beaune

Hotel Mid-Range

• Chateau de Challenges

Restaurants: Luxury:

• Loiseau des Vignes
• Le Benaton

Mid-range

• La Taverne (the place I mentioned above)

Budget

• Le Bistrot Bourguignon

Shop

I found a delightful home concept store in Beaune called. Show Room Lumière, where you will find beautiful lighting and home decor. I could have bought everything in the shop.